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Accused of being a large contributor to many artistic creations over the past centuries, it would seem absinthe is a revolutionary tool; individuals such as Vincent Van Gogh, Oscar Wilde, and Picasso have all been storied to drink from this fabled bottle, yet its reputation for bold artistic direction has been outshined by its darker, more belligerent transgressions. Sure, Van Gogh may have partook in a number of absinthe drinks to rev his creative engine, but it is also said that he cut off his own ear while under the spell of the same elixir. Now, in a country where absinthe has only recently been taken off the blacklist, Americans can enjoy the beverage many have labeled the “Green Devil.”
Called many other names, including la fée verte (green fairy), absinthe has had a tumultuous history. While some researchers believe wormwood has been used for centuries, it was not until the 1800s that absinthe (and its key ingredient: wormwood) started becoming more prevalent.
In the 1880s, phyloxera was destroying many vineyards in Europe, causing the price of wine to skyrocket while its availability dropped substantially. With this shift, the mass populous had to whet their thirst for alcohol by new means, and just as easily as wine fell out of availability, absinthe took its place.
With the onslaught of new alcohol came new reasons to fiend it. According to some, absinthe’s use was a ticket to the insane asylum. For others, the myths surrounding its use were regarded as tried and true fact. No matter, though, for starting in 1905, European countries began banning the substance based on unsubstantiated beliefs.
“[P]eople want absinthe to be fearful stuff, with the distinctive form of pleasure that fearful things bring,” wrote Phil Baker in The Book of Absinthe: A Cultural History.
One fabled story occurred in August of 1905 in Switzerland. Jean Lanfray, known to regularly enjoy a glass of absinthe, came home one afternoon and shot his entire family.
His intoxication and subsequent actions were blamed solely on absinthe, when, in reality, he had consumed countless bottles of wine that day. However, since absinthe had such a bad reputation, Lanfray’s story pushed the abolition of absinthe even deeper into Prohibitionists agendas. (Of course, when the public found out about his wife’s pregnancy, the drive to abolish absinthe was even stronger).
In 1912, the United States outlawed absinthe: this would be the only alcoholic beverage to be singled out and banned alone. Not until 2007, almost 100 years later, would Americans be granted the chance to legally produce and partake in a glass of the substance again.
The ingredients in absinthe are unique, giving an unfair just-cause to its strong opponents. The key ingredient, wormwood (or, technically, Artemisia absinthium), is known to produce hallucinogenic effects in some individuals; however, with no scientific data to back the claims up, it has yet to be determined fact or fiction. Other ingredients are common herbs, flowers and leaves, such as anise and fennel.
Absinthe, though typically purchased, can be made from scratch. One individual, Joshua Rowland, has produced his share of absinthe over the years, and has found that trial and error is necessary. While not required in most recipes, his includes coriander, a component that gives the drink a unique bite.
“I don’t think many absinthe makers use coriander; they mainly use the anise and fennel and their own combination of herbs. I think it’s nice to try different herbs and spices, such as marjoram, or hyssop, as they can give the absinthe a tea-like taste,” said Rowland.
When serving absinthe, there are a few traditional methods of preparing the drink. While any glass can be used, there do exist glasses specifically made for absinthe use: they feature a bubble in the bottom that is meant as a measure for the absinthe (the bubble size will vary, however, as different areas prepare their drinks with different amounts). Also, special spoons were made for easy and efficient preparation of certain drinks.
“People react very differently to absinthe,” said Rowland, “but one thing you need to make sure of is serving it properly. If you don’t use a sugar cube and light it on fire, it’s just not worth drinking.”
One thing to be aware of when preparing an absinthe drink is the milky color it turns during the process. Anise, fennel and star anise have components that are not water-soluble, resulting in the murky appearance it presents. With this in mind, the following recipes will be all the more enjoyable. Cheers!
The standard absinthe drink
1 oz absinthe sugar cube ice water
Pour absinthe into glass and place sugar cube on spoon held over glass. Pour ice water slowly over sugar until dissolved. Should have 2 parts absinthe to five parts water when finished. (Absinthe glass and spoon recommended).
The more exciting standard absinthe drink
1 oz absinthe sugar cube 1 oz water ice cubes match or lighter
Pour absinthe into glass, and soak sugar cube in absinthe. Remove sugar cube to a spoon, and light cube on fire; let it burn over absinthe for one minute or until sugar is caramelized. Stir into glass; add water and ice. (Absinthe glass and spoon recommended).
Ernest Hemingway’s “Death in the Afternoon”
“Pour one jigger absinthe into a champagne glass. Add iced champagne until it attains proper opalescent milkiness. Drink three to five of these slowly.”
